Jorge Castillo: The pernil asado is just the way we like it – rich with earthy pork flavor and literally falling off of the bone.

Glenn Lindgren: The kitchen can be inventive here, with many dishes veering into the Nuevo Latino realm. One recent special was a dish of deboned oxtail wrapped in bacon and skirt steak, all served on a bed of pureed calabaza.

Raúl Musibay: They really do oxtail right here! It is slow cooked and very tender, a real treat.

Glenn Lindgren: Havana Central does mofongo – the Puerto Rican version of fufu – and it is very good. It's garlic infused mashed plantain with your choice of protein: chicken, shrimp, fried pork, roast pork, beef – even a vegetarian option.

Jorge Castillo: Don't miss the humble Cuban sandwich, done in the classic style and every bit as good as the one you had last year in Tampa.

Raúl Musibay: They make an excellent sangria at tableside. With fresh fruit, good wine, Hennessy, and Grand Marnier – it's just about as good as you're going to get!

HOURS:

Union Square Location:

11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday thru Wednesday | 11:30 a.m. to Midnight

Times Square Location:

11:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. Sunday thru Wednesday | 11:30 a.m. to Midnight Thursday thru Saturday

Upper West Side Location:

11:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Monday thru Wednesday | 11:30 a.m. 11:00 p.m. Thursday | 11:30 a.m. to Midnight Friday and Saturday | 11:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Sunday

PRICES: Moderate

DRESS: Business Casual

BAR: Full

CARDS: ALL

Website: http://www.havanacentral.com

Havana Central

The Details

Special thanks to CFU reader Enrique Sanchez for his excellent meal report used in this review.

Union Square

Raúl Musibay: Havana Central owner Jeremy Merrin may not be Cuban, but someone here sure cooks like one.

Jorge Castillo: Merrin has created a delightfully tropical Cuban restaurant just a block off Times Square – you can't miss the giant palm tree sign!

Glenn Lindgren: This is Cuban food with money behind it. That not only means a better chance of making it in the long term, but a level of service, quality, and above all, consistency that is sometimes lacking in mom and pop restaurants.

Jorge Castillo: Havana Central now operates from three different locations and seems to be on the cusp of becoming a national franchise.

Raúl Musibay: Don't let that scare you off. The food here rivals many of the better places in Miami and the island party atmosphere can't be beat.

Jorge Castillo: Start your meal with some empanadas, the three-cheese and chicken sofrito are stand-outs.

Glenn Lindgren: The baby back ribs are marinated in adobo and slow roasted. They are served with a picante mango-habanero sauce that gives them a nice tang.